A trip to the river

On our agenda all along has been the hope for a survey of the river for dolphins. This is not as easy as you might think. A significant amount of planning and resources have to be set aside for this type of work. And if we intend to survey the whole range (the range being between the headwaters and the next dam below) we have to coordinate with Indian researchers/managers (because part of the range is within Indian waters).

Today we headed to the interior of Bardia National Park. Within this park we can access the edge of the Geruwa which is the part of the Karnali where the Ganges river dolphin is still

Sign at opening of Bardia National Park, Nepal (JLewis, TDRF)

reported. To get within this park we have to have a permit. Without it, we could legally be shot. While this may seem a bit extreme, it is not. In this park are many endangered species that are still poached (i.e., hunted for body parts, like ivory tusks). So park rangers have to be equipt not only to defend themselves, but to defend the wildlife they are working to protect.

To get to the boat we are hoping to use, we have to motor through the park (using our motorcycle), then hike to a location where we then must use dugout canoes to cross to another location. At this spot we are to wait for the motor boat. Regretfully, the motor boat could not make it to us that day. It may have been the water levels of the river were just too low. We are working during the dry season. Waters of the Ganges and all tributaries of it are subject to seasonal changes in water patterns. This is within the tropics, and is subject to a rainy season and then a dry season. In addition, the waters of the Karnali system have been filled due to sedimentation from the creation of dams.

Geruwa river, Nepal (JLewis, TDRF)

Still our trip is not a total bust because I am able to view and film what the river looks like in this region. And I collected footage of Gopal surveying from the dugout, which is used sometimes for surveys where the river width is small enough to see clearly to the shore, on both sides, without missing a surfacing dolphin.